Variations of the famous Pinot Noir are cultivated in all the winegrowing regions of Slovenia, with good results, although not as widely as this excellent wine deserves. In Podravje, the wine is still sometimes referred to as Modri Burgundec (Blue Burgundy), derived from the (now outdated) German terminology since the wine was first brought to Slovenia by German and Austrian vineyard owners. Pinot Noir is undoubtedly the noblest red wine of the cooler parts of Europe, the Riesling of red wines - - and the ancestor of all Pinots.
Modri Pinot ripens moderately late and the yield is usually low. The must is sweet and aromatic, and the skins have a high content of pigments which gives the wine a deep ruby-red colour. The young wine is usually a little rough and dry, its aroma reminiscent of cherries and raspberries. Modri Pinot requires two years of cask-aging, and a further two to five years in the bottle to reach perfection. Matured Modri Pinot is moderate in alcohol, the acids are moderate and balanced, and the taste velvety with just a slight but pleasant gamy bitterness; the bouquet is noble and unobtrusive, reminiscent of almonds, hazelnuts, and walnuts.
One must distinguish two types of vinification with Modri Pinot, really two types of wine: regular vinification produces a wine that may be consumed young although it does reach its peak for three to five years. Modri Pinot intended for protracted aging goes through a longer period of fermentation with the skins ("maceration"): the wine is richer in pigments and tannin and quite unpleasantly tangy, even bitter when young. This type of wine should be aged for ten years - partly in the casks, which includes regular racking, and up to five years in the bottle. The mature wine is of a characteristic reddish colour, pelure d'ognion, with a specific taste suggesting singed wood (goudron) and truffles; it is very smooth, a true connoisseur's wine. All varieties of Modri Pinot retain their outstanding quality for a long time if stored properly.
There are many excellent sites for Modri Pinot in Slovenia, but its low yield makes it unpopular among winegrowers. As the Slovene wine industry increasingly competes in the high-quality market, this vine will spread as it will frequently be chosen as a replacement for other older vines. Currently, the best Modri Pinot comes from Radgona-Kapela and Srednje Slovenske Gorice in Podravje, Smarje-Virstajn and Bela Krajina in Posavje, and Brda in Primorje.
Young Modri Pinot should be served at 18 °C (64.4 °F) and aged Modri Pinot at 20 °C (68 °F)("room temperature" is a misleading qualifier, especially in the summer or in over-heated apartments and restaurants). This king of red wines should accompany only the best dishes: roast duck or quail with a rich sauce, roast pork, dark meats stewed with olive oil, game, and full-bodied piquant cheeses.
